Những điều ít biết về chất liệu da – biểu tượng của thời trang cao cấp

Có gì đằng sau chất liệu da – chất liệu xa xỉ bậc nhất của thời trang cao cấp? Làm sao để sử dụng đồ da một cách thân thiện với môi trường?

Phụ kiện và trang phục làm từ chất liệu da đã có từ lâu đời và là một phần không thể thiếu của thời trang cao cấp. Năm 2019 vừa qua chứng kiến sự “bùng nổ” của họa tiết da động vật, đồ da vốn đã phổ biến nay lại càng được “săn đón” nhiều hơn nữa. Vậy câu chuyện đằng sau chất liệu này là gì? Vì sao có sự xuất hiện của da nhân tạo và nó có ý nghĩa như thế nào trong xu hướng thời trang bền vững hiện nay?

ĐỒ DA ĐÃ PHÁT TRIỂN NHƯ THẾ NÀO?

Như một bằng chứng rõ nét cho sự khéo léo và tháo vát của con người, chất liệu da đóng một phần quan trọng trong sự phát triển của nền văn minh. Từ xưa đến nay, vật liệu da vẫn luôn song hành với sự phát triển của thời trang và sáng tạo.

lịch sử chất liệu da

Trong suốt tiến trình lịch sử, việc mặc đồ da đồng nghĩa với sự khẳng định địa vị. Đồ da đại diện cho “sự vương giả” bởi giá thành cao và quá trình xử lý phức tạp. Chỉ có tầng lớp vua chúa và quý tộc mới đủ khả năng sử dụng đồ da.

Từ những năm 1960 đến 1970, đã có nhiều nhà thiết kế đi sâu vào sáng tạo đồ da. Các nhà mốt châu Âu như Claude Montana, Versace, Armani, Ungaro, Fendi, Gucci, Alaia và Hermès đã dẫn đầu trong thiết kế trang phục bằng da trong những năm 1980. Đến cuối thập niên 1980, nhiều tên tuổi hàng đầu của Mỹ cũng phát hiện ra khả năng vô hạn của da như Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Geoffrey Beene, Donna Karan và Bill Blass.

lịch sử chất liệu da 70s

Đồ da Ralph Laurent cuối thập niên 70

Các nhà thiết kế không ngừng đổi mới và sáng tạo, tìm cách mang sự hiện đại và thời thượng vào đồ da. Da cá sấu, da rắn và đà điểu đã gây bão ở các sàn diễn thời trang cao cấp. Bên cạnh đó còn có sự ra đời của các loại da độc đáo như da bóng và da lộn. Dù không thể nói trước điều gì về sự phát triển của thời trang nhưng chất liệu da chắc chắn luôn giữ một vị trí quan trọng trong văn hóa ăn mặc đương đại.

SỨC HÚT CỦA ĐỒ DA ĐẾN TỪ ĐÂU?

Đồ da sang trọng và thể hiện địa vị

Đồ da có nhiều công dụng tuyệt vời nhưng lại khó xử lý nguyên liệu thô và bảo quản. Do đó, đồ da luôn đắt tiền và xa xỉ. Việc sở hữu đồ da thể hiện vị thế của chủ nhân, từ trang phục cho đến đồ nội thất.

Hiện tại, tuy đồ da đã trở nên phổ biến và dễ mua hơn rất nhiều, chúng vẫn ở một mức giá không mấy phải chăng. Nhiều người vẫn dùng đồ da như một tuyên ngôn về phong cách và địa vị xã hội.

Thời trang cao cấp từ chất liệu da

Đồ da có độ bền cao

Bảo quản và làm sạch đồ da tương đối tốn nhiều công sức hơn các loại vải vóc bình thường. Nhưng bù lại, đồ da rất bền và thậm chí ngày càng đẹp khi tuổi thọ món đồ càng tăng. Không hề khó hiểu khi những chiếc túi xách, đồng hồ, giày da đã qua lâu đời thậm chí được săn lùng và bán với mức giá cao hơn gấp nhiều lần đồ mới.

chất liệu da bền chắc

Trang phục làm từ da sành điệu và dễ kết hợp

Đồ da luôn mang lại vẻ thời thượng cho người mặc. Chúng ta hiếm khi thấy một món đồ da nào “lỗi thời” hay “quê mùa”. Đầu tư vào một chiếc túi da hay một đôi bốt da đơn giản luôn là lựa chọn thông minh, vì chúng có thể kết hợp với bất kì bộ trang phục nào.

Chất liệu da dễ mặc đồ

CHIẾN DỊCH PHẢN ĐỐI ĐỒ DA CỦA PETA – BỨC TRANH HIỆN THỰC TÀN BẠO

Hiệp hội PETA cùng với nhà thiết kế Stella McCartney từng phát động một chiến dịch phản đối việc sử dụng đồ da thật trong khuôn khổ tuần lễ thời trang London năm 2012. Chiến dịch kêu gọi các tín đồ thời trang không sử dụng đồ làm từ da và lông động vật. Một video quảng cáo chiến dịch đã được thực hiện, tác động mạnh mẽ đến cảm xúc của người xem.

Sau đó, hàng loạt các tên tuổi lớn như Marc Bouwer, Natalie Portman và Joan Jett đã tìm hiểu về sự tàn bạo trong ngành khai thác đồ da. Họ đã hạn chế đồ da và khẳng định rằng chúng ta vẫn có thể trông thật phong cách mà không phải giết bất kì con vật nào.

Nhiều thương hiệu thời trang cao cấp như Gucci, Chanel, Burberry, Prada, Versace, Coach… cũng đã nói không với việc sử dụng da và lông động vật. Ngày càng có nhiều thiết kế được làm bằng các chất liệu thay thế cho da thật nhưng vẫn giữ được vẻ sang trọng, một tín hiệu đáng mừng cho các tín đồ thời trang yêu môi trường.

Cùng với đó, các nhãn hiệu thời trang bình dân như H&M, Zara, Topshop… cũng đã cam kết với công chúng trong việc loại bỏ các sản phẩm làm từ da và lông thật ra khỏi danh mục của mình, thay thế bằng các chất liệu nhân tạo khác.

CHẤT LIỆU DA NHÂN TẠO – SỰ THAY THẾ HOÀN HẢO

DA GIẢ LÀ GÌ VÀ NÓ THAY THẾ DA THẬT NHƯ THẾ NÀO?

Da giả, còn được gọi là da tổng hợp, là một sự thay thế tuyệt vời cho da thật. Với thành phần từ dầu mỏ, nó có nhiều đặc tính giống với da thật nhưng không hề đòi hỏi sự giết hại động vật.

chất liệu da nhân tạo

Ứng dụng của da giả cũng tương tự da thật, bao gồm sản xuất đồ nội thất, đồ may mặc và phụ kiện thời trang. Da giả có khả năng chống nước, chống bám bẩn cao và rất dễ làm sạch. Dù kém bền hơn da thật, nó lại có khả năng chống mài mòn và khó bị rạch cắt. Chưa hết, da giả có thể được nhuộm thành bất kì màu sắc nào mà nhà sản xuất mong muốn. Điều này mang đến khả năng sáng tạo bất tận cho các nhà mốt.

Khi nhìn bằng mắt thường, rất khó phân biệt đâu là da thật và da tổng hợp. Tuy nhiên, chúng ta vẫn có thể phân biệt được chúng thông qua  tiếp xúc bằng tay. Da tổng hợp cho cảm giác rất “nhựa” khi chạm vào, khác hoàn toàn với sự mềm mại đàn hồi của da thật.

CÓ CÁC LOẠI DA TỔNG HỢP NÀO?

DA PU

Là loại da tổng hợp rẻ nhất trên thị trường nhưng có độ bền kém và sử dụng không thoải mái như các loại da khác.

Thời trang cao cấp chất liệu da PU 1

DA PVC

Da PVC bền hơn một chút so với da PU và cũng được sản xuất với số lượng lớn hơn.

Thời trang cao cấp chất liệu da PVC

Những chiếc áo khoác PVC trong suốt phủ sóng sàn diễn Fendi năm 2019

DA DẦU THỰC VẬT

Ngoài việc thân thiện với môi trường hơn, da dầu thực vật còn phần nào bền hơn da PU và PVC. Tuy nhiên, chất liệu này cũng đắt hơn đáng kể so với các loại da tổng hợp khác. Loại da này là một sản phẩm thích hợp cho những người theo chủ nghĩa thuần chay,  muốn bảo vệ môi trường.

Thời trang cao cấp chất liệu da dầu thực vật

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